London streets tell the city's history

Bleeding Heart Yard. Houndsditch. Spitalfields. Elephant and Castle.

London is filled with oddball place names, from pokey alleyways to grand thoroughfares - and a tourism organization has launched a monthlong campaign to tell the city's history through its streets.

Visit London's "Street Stories" initiative includes an event at Buckingham Palace where tourists participate in a game of "paille maille" - a 17th Century precursor to croquet that is believed to have given its name to the stately London avenue known as Pall Mall.

The origin of many of the unusual names is fairly straightforward: Houndsditch derives from the ditch where people dumped dead dogs in the Middle Ages, Bleeding Heart Yard from a legend that a noblewoman's still-pumping heart was found there after she was murdered in the 1620s.

In other cases, the names offer insights into how language - especially English - is an endlessly evolving thing that takes fascinating twists and turns through popular use.

Elephant and Castle, a south London neighborhood, purportedly comes from "La Infanta de Castilla," which in Spanish refers to Catherine of Aragon, the Spanish princess who was Henry VIII's first wife.

The corruption of the name was likely just an accident of time - reflecting Londoners' inability to pronounce foreign words rather than any malicious jab at Henry's legendary girth.

"Language changes and names don't make sense after a while. Elephant and Castle makes more sense than la Infanta de Castilla," said Ed Glinert, author of "The London Compendium: A Street-by-street Exploration of the Hidden Metropolis."

Spitalfields, the site of a famous market in east London, is a contraction of "Hospital Fields" - where the early 12th century New Hospital of St. Mary without Bishopsgate was located. Pall Mall, which cuts through the capital's center, probably got its name because British nobility was fond of playing "paille maille" on long, straight streets.

And Chalk Farm, in north London, is a corruption of "Chalcot Farm" - a place that no longer exists, but was chosen as the name for the nearby Underground stop simply because it was memorable.

Mary Tucker, who leads tours of historical neighborhoods for the company, London Walks, said her clients are eager to see the city in a different way.

"Street names are often a clue to what went on in an area in the past. We point out nooks and crannies, the little details you can only see by walking," she said.

Many of London's streets help narrate British history.

Portobello, the location of a famous antique market, was renamed for the capture of Puerto Bello in modern-day Panama during the 18th Century's War of Austrian Succession, which was fought mainly in central Europe.

The tony Knightsbridge neighborhood derived its name from the alleged duel two knights fought over a bridge.

One of the world's most famous streets gets its name from a stiff collar called a "picadil." A tailor who specialized in them built himself a grand mansion, which locals called Piccadilly Hall. Today, the nearby roundabout and Tube station is called Piccadilly Circus.

Cheapside, near the famous St. Paul's Cathedral, has nothing to do with being inexpensive: `cheap' comes from an Old English word meaning market and 'side' from the street running alongside the stalls.

Nearby streets like Milk Street, Bread Street and Poultry, one of the shortest streets in the world, indicate what was sold there, Glinert said.

"We're trying to get people off the beaten path," said Visit London spokeswoman Jacqueline French.


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Want an all-American Independence Day? Try London

There are few better places to celebrate the United States and its Independence Day than London.

Whether you prefer sipping bubbly at the wood-paneled home of America's brainiest founding father, Ben Franklin, or downing an ale on the jetty where the Mayflower set off for Massachusetts, the British capital is packed with options for a patriotic week away.

"It is surprising - it's shocking - how much there really is here," said Delaina Stone, the secretary of the American Society in London.

American heroes cling to the corners of some of the British capital's greatest monuments. Abraham Lincoln keeps watch over Parliament Square, while Martin Luther King Jr. peers serenely over the camera-toting tourists thronging to Westminster Abbey. Even rebel-in-chief George Washington, whose insurgency tore the British Empire apart, has a commanding view of Trafalgar Square.

Just down the street is Benjamin Franklin House, where the bespectacled philosopher-statesman spent nearly 16 years probing the mysteries of science, tinkering with his inventions and trying, with varying degrees of success, to manage relations between Britain and her petulant colonies.

The curators of his recently restored four-story Georgian home plan a reception on Friday, July 3. Keep the kids busy with Franklin action figures (complete with kite) sold in the gift shop.

The main event - a party at the U.S. Embassy - comes a day earlier. The invitation-only bash tends to feature barbecue, although embassy spokesman Philip Breeden said mini-burgers were also a possibility.

Even if you can't finagle an invite, the embassy's Grosvenor Square address is still worth a visit. The area has been associated with the United States ever since John Adams, the first U.S. Minister to the Court of St. James, moved here in 1785. Home to Gen. Dwight Eisenhower's European headquarters during World War II, the square once known as "Little America" is the perfect place for a Fourth of July picnic.

Work up an appetite with Kim Dewdney, who is leading an Independence Day walking tour starting at 2:30 p.m. On the itinerary: The crypt of St. Martin-in-the-Fields' church, where the bodies of the king and queen of Hawaii were briefly kept after they succumbed to measles during a 1824 visit to London.

Music lovers may want to stay there all week. St. Martin's hosts a series of U.S.-themed concerts from July 2-4, including a family friendly event Saturday featuring works by Aaron Copland, George Gershwin and Leonard Bernstein.

Those hoping to catch a glimpse of the rockets' red glare may be disappointed. A U.S. military base northwest of the city, which used to put on fireworks displays, has been shut down. Stone said the American Society wasn't throwing a party this year either.

None of which prevents you from celebrating in style. For those in favor of a waterborne excursion, the Independence Day Cruise down the River Thames may be just the ticket. The 5-hour jaunt features a two-course barbecue and a Dixie Swing band. The young and restless have a range of Fourth of July-themed nights to choose from - including an "American Independence Day Party" at Apt Bar in central London. Promoter Anthony Balogun said the celebrations will last until 4 a.m. His advice: Book ahead and wear red, white and blue.

Those interested in something a little more sedate should give some thought to south and east London - areas typically less troubled by tourists than St. Martin's or Trafalgar Square.

It's a healthy walk east from London Bridge to the sleepy riverside neighborhood of Rotherhithe, home to The Mayflower Pub and Restaurant. Built on the spot where the famous ship set off for Plymouth before its trip to the New World, the restaurant's wood balcony is an ideal to place to have an ale and a traditional Sunday roast while listening to the Thames gurgle gently beneath your feet.

Across the river, in London's East End, the Whitechapel Bell Foundry is intensely proud of its American links. The 16th century workshop has supplied bells to churches across the U.S., including the National Cathedral in Washington. But its most famous American export remains the Liberty Bell, whose chimes, according to tradition, summoned the citizens of Philadelphia to hear the first public reading of the Declaration of Independence.

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Serving Wimbledon A Behind-the-Scene Account

This year's Wimbledon Championships may be over but everyone can easily have a peek at the world's most prestigious tennis tournament at (almost) any given time.

Located in the south of London, the home of Wimbledon, the All England Club is open for public to participate in guided tours and a museum visit. Here's our take on some of the tour's highlights.

Henman Hill

That afternoon, our charming, motherly English guide took us to the first tour stop: Henman Hill. Each year, tennis fans who don't get show court tickets sit here (and bring their picnic bags) to watch the Wimbledon matches via the giant screen.

Though its actual name is Aorangi Terrace, the hill was nicknamed Henman Hill in honor of Tim Henman, a former number one British player. Given the condition of Henman's retirement there's been the talk to change the label into Murray's Mount (obviously from current Brit semifinalist Andy Murray), however it remains Henman Hill for now.

Decked out with flowers and emblazoned with this year's logo, the hill, unlike on its tournament days, was rather empty. It offered the perfect opportunity to climb up the mound for a glimpse of the city of London and the Wimbledon complex we'd next further explore.

The Press Centers

The tour then went into Wimbledon Broadcast Centre to visit the BBC studios. As the official TV station for Wimbledon since before the Second World War, BBC is as legendary as the tournament itself. For instance, last year over 13 million viewers watched the Nadal - Federer epic match in the final via BBC telecast, a spectacular number by any means.

On the set, it was surprising to observe how "ordinary" the studio looked. The limited amount of space was optimized with one desk before the giant window; and another set next to it put Wimbledon players' images as the background for the telecast. In this studio, Henman, Boris Becker and John McEnroe and many others have become game commentators throughout the years. Don't forget to sit at the anchor's desk to complete the experience.

Moving on from the BBC set, visitors will be taken to the Millennium Building. We were given a chance to step into the shoes of tennis stars for a few moments, as we were brought through the player's entrance and had a look at the reception desk where players arrived and checked in each summer.

Passing through the players' cafeteria, we then entered the press conference room. In the center stage lay the hot seat where the likes of Roger Federer or Serena Williams have answered questions from international journalists. Predictably every tour member took turns to sit on that coveted spot and get their "I've been to Wimbledon" photo taken. Even just for a while, it felt good fantasizing about being a Wimbledon celebrity.

The Courts

The most sought-after site in the tour is of course the Centre Court. Too bad that during our visit, the legendary court was closed for public. The multimillion-pound renovation that put a retractable roof and 1200 extra seats in the Centre Court took years and left the court untouched by visitors most of the time outside the championship. The good news is after this year's tournament that shiny new court is yours to gawk at.

The tour still took us to several other courts including the old Court No. 2 that's dubbed "The Graveyard of Champions" as it often take seeded players as its victims. A renovation moved the court into a Court No. 13's site for a better look and bigger capacity with the old one became the new Court No. 3.

The final stop in the tour de court is Court No. 1 where for decades the best matches were often juggled between here and Centre Court. The tour guide lets us walk around the stadium, sit wherever we like and take pictures for 10 minutes or so.

Built in 1997, visitors can admire the stadium's design that was made to allow spectators' to have an unobstructed view of the games. Given the grand capacity of 11,429, the court is surely one of the tour's biggest highlights, allowing tennis fans to relish memories of great past performances of the century.

Just below Court No. 1, make a detour to the Renshaw Caf* pre or post tour. Open for public to taste the Wimbledon's classic strawberries and cream among other menu, the caf* is great for a relaxing afternoon English tea.

The Museum

When the tour is finished, visitors can top it with a visit to Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum that includes a free audio guide. To keep interests at a high level, the museum is designed to be lively and interactive, combining audio-visual techniques.

Video screens are available for many memorable games in Wimbledon history to be watched again (we love any Evert vs Navratilova retro finals) while 200-degree cinema featuring 2005's match between Sharapova & Llagostera will offer you an insight into the science of tennis. And that's not it; one can also challenge their tennis skills with plenty of games available.

Another interesting point is John McEnroe exhibit that lets the player's video image take the museum goers to his recollections of Wimbledon like nobody ever does. From dressing room in the 80s to McEnroe's locker, it's a fascinating behind-the-curtain account from one of the world's most infamous players.

For approximately an hour or more, depending on your free time, tennis aficionados can wander back to great Wimbledon moments with photos, videos, players' trophies to authentic memorabilia dating back to 1555.

An inviting finishing point, the gift shop located above the museum offers great Wimbledon knick-knacks. Ever dreamed of using a Wimbledon towel during a tennis game between friends? It's about time to flaunt one back home.

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London on a shoestring

How does it feel to fly halfway around the world on a budget airline for 14 hours?

Tiring, of course. But to be honest, flying budget airline Air Asia from Kuala Lumpur to London was just as tiring as flying KLM-Air France or Malaysia Airlines from Kuala Lumpur to Amsterdam.

The condition of the aircraft and the size of the seats are just the same. The differences are, flying Air Asia, you don't get to enjoy the facilities at the nicer terminal at Kuala Lumpur International Airport, and instead have to wait around at its crowded and low-key Low Cost Carrier Terminal.

Other differences are the onboard services. On an Air Asia plane, you need to pay for everything except toilet use and hand-luggage space. I have taken low-cost trips on several budget airlines several times, but all of them were short trips like three hours at the most. For three hours, you might be fine without food and with only one bottle of water. But for more than 12 hours, on an Air Asia-sponsored trip last month, I got a bit annoyed to find myself shelling out a dollar for every 500-milliliter-bottle of water.

But the low price might outweigh your decision. In April, I checked the price for a one way trip from KL to London on the last week of October. Airasia.com gave me RM759 or US$208 for an economy trip.

The price included pre-booked meals for RM33 (US$9), comfort kit (blanket and pillow, which you can take home) for RM25 or $7 and 20 kilograms baggage allowance for RM55 or $15. For the same date but in business class, Air Asia charges $609.

But if you don't book ahead, you are likely to pay a much higher price. For a flight in June or two months ahead, the cost could reach $360 for economy and $462 for more spacious seats in business class.

In short, Air Asia to London is a good option for those with limited budget, those who do not mind the absence of free flow wine, coffee, water and free entertainment and would rather save the money for more shopping and sightseeing or those who plan far ahead.

The money saved could also fund better accommodation. The accommodation starts at below *20 per person per night in a dorm room (you share with six to eight other people on bunk beds) to more than *350 for luxury. A double room with a shared bathroom hovers at around *50 per night.

Once you have secured nice and clean accommodation, exploring London on a budget is easy.

To get around the city comfortably, travelers can buy a pay-as-you-go Oyster Card. It covers trips on London Underground system or the tube, trams and buses, including the famous red double decker.

With Oyster Card, passengers can save about 50 percent compared to buying a ticket for each trip. You can purchase the card at any underground station (including the one at Heathrow Airport), either for a *3 deposit (you can return the card at the end of your trip) or for free along with a multi-day travelcard.

Walking around London, however, is pleasant, even breathtaking sometimes, as long as you are dressing suitably, with comfortable shoes, an umbrella and a raincoat lest rain decides to pour at any unexpected time. Veering off the beaten track promises a more satisfying experience.

Although London is a big city, your chances of getting lost are small if you are equipped with a map. As long as you remember the nearest tube station to your accommodation, you can just take the underground, see the map at the station, locate yours, and go.

For an amazing yet free-of-charge experience, British Museum in London is a must. Seemingly less celebrated compared to the Louvre in Paris, British Museum boasts equally astounding, huge collections from around the world. If Louvre has Mona Lisa as the most popular object, the British Museum has the Rosetta Stone, the stone that was the key to understanding the hieroglyphs.

London has many street markets, each with its own specialty. Borough Market, a food and fresh produce market is a very tantalizing place and somewhat comforting in the way good food can be.

The Portobello Market at Notting Hill Gate area is less interesting but a must if you want a bragging right to having been at the shooting location of Hugh Grant's Notting Hill. The blue door to Grant's apartment has gone to the highest bidder in an auction, however.

Affordable attractions are aplenty in London. One of them is the London Eye, a giant Ferris wheel (I don't know how else to describe it, but I was told they don't like it being called a Ferris wheel). A standard ticket is *17 for adults and half-price for children. You can get married while taking a flight (they also want us to say flying or taking a flight) on the London Eye.

Eating good food is also not necessarily expensive. Dining out in a nice restaurant can be friendly to your pocket; a full course can cost you only an average of *14 per person. Indian restaurants like the Masala Zone at Covent Garden (masalazone.com) or Turkish one like Sofra (sofra.co.uk) at Oxford Circus provide a set menu from starter to dessert for under *15.

Portions are generally much bigger than those in Indonesia, so if you don't eat a lot, you might want to only order a starter or ask for a smaller portion.

There are many more things you can do in London on a budget. The website visitlondon.com has a special section on how to see London on a budget. The pound sterling might be the most expensive currency in the world, but your rupiah can buy a lot of quality fun there.

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